The Poor Man's Guide's
Wine Reviews

This is a meaty, earthy Moscato with that Oltrepo Pavese terroir accenting the sweet melon and citrus fruits. It smells and tastes similar to a Moscato di Asti but with a richness, almost an umami-ness to it that is quite intriguing. Sweet, not a super-bright Moscato, but not cloying either. This stays refreshing and easy to drink; sweet and satisfying at the same time. A fun summer sipper and at 7% alcohol you could drink this all afternoon long! One Star Plus.

This is the epitome of a simple wine, almost to a fault. But it actually falls short of having any faults, its just simple. But that simple flavor is a good one, just simply tasty and gulpable. A refreshing mouthful of strawberry tinged Prosecco-like simplicity and goodness. Mass produced? Yes. Cheap? Yes. Worth it and refreshing? Absolutely. One Star.

Classic Chablis oystershell, gravelly rocks and tart white fruits grace the nose of this Grand Cru Chablis. It is a bit hesitant but already you can see that complexity. Crisp, dry and intense with a silky, fine etching of ground oystershell minerality. Quite powerful flavors with ripe fruit flavors within, showing its depth. It is rather tight and not showing all the complexity that it likely will with time. I'd hold off on the rest of these for a while ideally, giving it a chance to unwind a bit. I'd wait 5 years and then drink this over the following 20 years (assuming no oxidation sets in). Two Stars Plus.

This one is clearly Pinot Gris. A waxy honeydew melon and lychee fruit nose, accented by chalk and white stones. Not as minerally as the Riesling below, more tropical and sweet, as Pinot Gris usually is. Rounder in the mouth with lower acid. A waxy, oily melon sweetness to it. One Star.

This has that classic umami, chicken bouillon thing going on in the nose that the oxidized Savagnin wines of the Jura often posses and I love so much. It isn't as intense as a Vin Jaune but it is really pretty and mouthwatering nonetheless. Celery seed, aromatic root vegetable aromas also come out which is really amazing to think they came from grapes. I love the complexity of these wines. Like it should, on the palate there is a crisp acidity but with that creamy, meaty richness. No, this doesn't have the depth and complexity of a Vin Jaune, but it is definitely in that realm and should continue to get better with age. Two Stars.

This 09 is back on track and is stunning. A beautiful wine, very much like the earlier vintages with that piercing granite minerality. However, the fruit is riper in this great vintage. But not in a California Chardonnay kind of a way. It is like a hint of ripe pineapple to the stony fruit but with plenty of zesty, crisp mineral flavors that are piercing and intense. In fact the mineral component is quite pronounced with a filigreed texture to it. This is really the best of both worlds with ripe beautiful fruit as well as that stunning minerality. A great Muscadet. Two Plus Stars.

Similar to a white Cassis, if you know that wine. If not, its got some Sancerre-like aspects as well, with apple, grass and hay with an underbelly of flinty minerality. Crisp and dry with lively tart fruit, hay and wool. This is just lovely and yummy, for lack of a better word. A perfect foil for Moule et Frites or a creamy Loire-like goat's milk cheese. Two Stars.

This St. Joseph, from a village in the northern Rhone not far from Hermitage and Cote Rotie, is 100% Syrah and it shows. Dark, smokey aromas of earth, meat and pepper introduce you to dense, dark fruit flavors with excellent mineral intensity and acid. This is a complete wine and a great, peppery foil to a host of rich foods from steak to lamb to stews. As usual, a great value and an excellent introduction to Syrah and the wines of the northern Rhône Valley. Two Stars.

This is quite dark, smokey and peppery for a Dolcetto. Ample spices accent the dark fruit flavors which have much more depth and "seriousness" than most Dolcetto. This is brambly and wild, almost Zinfandel-like with a wild brambly sauvage character. This is a spicy, rich and meaty mouthful of strikingly powerful and dense dark fruit. This is Dolcetto? Seems more like a blend of Barbera and Nebbiolo to me! Especially compared to most of the vapid Dolcetto out there. This is the best Dolcetto I've had! Who's ever heard of Dolcetto aging? Usually this stuff is meant to be drunk up quick. But this one seems like it could hold on a while. Bravo Bruno! Two Very Enthusiastic Stars.

A dusty, reglisse-like fruit and Provençal herbs. Peppery and herby, this is very drinkable with a silky texture. Not complex, but satisfying with a crisp finish that keeps it focused and not jammy like some southern Rhone wines can get these days in warm vintages. Good value! One Star Plus.

This Cuvée Reserve has a very meaty but also fruity nose, a hint of barnyard (but not off-putting), blueberry and blackberry. A rich but suave texture. This isn't terribly complex but it is tasty and rich. This isn't the best St. Martin I've had but it is nice and worth the affordable price tag. A good alternative to southern Rhone wines. Check out their Bronzinelle too. Haven't had the 08 yet but its always one of my favorites. One Star Plus.

The thing that was really weird about this one was a very strange medicinal and hot alcoholic nose that was disjointed and awkward. At first I gave it the benefit of the doubt and thought it might need a little air and rest to integrate. No such luck. I tried this over several nights and it really didn't get any better. In the mouth it was also weird and angular with an almost cloying sweetness. Yes, Malmsey is typically sweet, but good Madeira has that acid and piney brightness that helps balance it. It did mellow somewhat over several days, getting more richly smokey but still quite angular, medicinal and almost chemical. This is not a Madeira I would buy again. For less money, if you want an inexpensive 10 year Malmsey, I'd prefer the ubiquitous 10 Year Blandy's. Zero Stars.

The character of this example is different than the Noval. Whereas the Noval tended towards the dry side of port, this is a rich, full-bodied and certainly sweet port. Deep, smokey and earthy cassis and cherry aromas widen into quite rich cassis and frambois flavors that are quite sweet, but remain balanced. If you prefer your ports on the sweeter side, this and the Graham's Six Grapes are good vintage character choices for you. If you prefer a bit more structure and drier flavors, Dow, Taylor and Noval, among others, make ports that may be more up your alley. One Star Plus.